Chemical Exfoliators Can Be Complexion Game Changers. Here's All You Need To Know. (2024)

If you're on a mission to achieve softer, brighter skin, you've probably heard a thing or two about how to exfoliate your face. Although physical exfoliants (think gritty scrubs) are great, chemical ones can be just as beneficial. In fact, some dermatologists warn that physical exfoliants are more likely to cause irritation, especially if you're too rough on your skin.

"Even if someone thinks they're being gentle with a face scrub, it's very easy to cause tiny micro-abrasions or microscopic tears in the skin that aren't visible to the naked eye," explains Jessica Dowling, MD, a medical and cosmetic dermatologist at the Skin Institute of New York. "That could lead to bacteria penetrating skin and causing one of the different types of acne or leading to uneven skin texture."

Chemical exfoliants—typically acids or plant enzymes such as glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acid—do all the work for you, sloughing away dulling dead skin, de-gunking pores, and brightening your complexion, no scrubbing required. They remove the human error element out of the exfoliation equation, making the process more fool-proof.

Meet the experts: Tiffany Clay, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Atlanta, Georgia. Jessica Dowling, MD, is a medical and cosmetic dermatologist at the Skin Institute of New York (SINY). Anna Chacon, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in Miami, Florida.

Of course, with many different types of chemical exfoliation ingredient to choose from—all of which come with unique risks and benefits—it can be challenging to know what will work best for your skin. Luckily, WH has you covered, with expert insight from top dermatologists on everything there is to know.

Read on for all the details.

What is a chemical exfoliant?

Again, chemical exfoliants are acids or enzymes that remove the bonds between dead skin cells so they can be sloughed away from the surface of your skin. This process should be happening naturally, but as we age, our skin's natural process of exfoliation slows, making exfoliating products necessary. Bottom line: These acids so all the exfoliating for you, says Dr. Dowling.

These aren't to be confused with physical exfoliants, which are objects or scrubs that manually exfoliate the skin. Think: loofas, dry brushes, washcloths, face washes with micro-beads, and straight-up face scrubs. Physical exfoliation can also be done through in-office procedures such as microdermabrasion and dermaplaning.

What are the different kinds of chemical exfoliants?

• AHAs: Short for alpha hydroxy acids, AHAs are typically found in food. Some of the most common types that have made their way into skincare products include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. "Some of these, like lactic and mandelic, can be gentler on sensitive skin, while glycolic can be quite potent," says Dr. Dowling. Generally thought, they're also gentler than BHAs (see below).
• BHAs: Salicylic acid is the most common BHA (beta hydroxy acid) found in skincare. "It's oil soluble, making it a great option for oily skin," says board-certified dermatologist Tiffany Clay, MD. She adds that it minimizes oil on the skin and breaks down a lot of the debris inside the pores that cause acne. These acids can also help with conditions such as keratosis pilaris, psoriasis, and seborrhoeic dermatitis, says Anna Chacon, MD, a board-certified dermatologist.
• PHAs: Polyhydroxy acids have similar properties to AHAs and BHAs, but they're slightly larger molecules, so they don't penetrate the skin as easily, explains Dr. Clay, which makes them a potentially less-irritating option for sensitive complexions. While there are several PHAs out there, gluconolactone and lactobionic are the ones frequently found in skincare. "They're the most gentle on the skin and can sometimes even have hydrating effects," adds Dr. Dowling.

Benefits of chemical exfoliation

Using chemical exfoliants can increase skin cell turnover, which will improve brightness, and can help to stimulate collagen production for a firming effect, says Dr. Clay. These products can also reduce hyperpigmentation since certain acids "decrease the overproduction of melanin in the skin so that you're not getting discoloration and dark spots," she says.

In addition, some can even prevent acne. "Acne is caused by a lot of different mechanisms," explains Dr. Dowling. "By removing dead skin cells, chemical exfoliators decrease the amount of clogged pores we can have, and the clogging of pores is one of the mechanisms in which a pimple forms." Dermatologists generally recommend beta hydroxy acids for acne-prone skin as they can assist with decreasing oil production. And with dead skin out of the way, you can expect your skincare products to absorb better, too.

Are there any side effects from using chemical exfoliants?

These products should only be used weekly or biweekly to avoid negative side effects. "If you overuse an exfoliator, the skin can become excessively dry and irritated, which can actually make the skin produce more oil and worsen things," says Dr. Dowling. "It can also lead to a damaged skin barrier, redness, and inflammation." She adds that even without excessive use, exfoliating causes sun sensitivity so using a good sunscreen daily after is a must.

With that in mind, it's best to use your products at night. If you use retinol, make a plan to alternate your days with your exfoliator to avoid irritation. Dr. Clay adds that gentler formulas are best for those with rosacea, who may experience more redness when using acids.

What kind of chemical exfoliator should I use if I have…

• Oily skin: AHAs or BHAs can work for this skin type. If you're oily with sensitive skin, Dr. Dowling recommends mandalic acid (AHA) since it's gentler than a BHA like salicylic acid, which can also be used if you have oily, acne-prone skin. Dr. Clay is a fan of glycolic acid since it's well tolerated by people with oily skin.
• Dry skin: AHAs and PHAs will be your best friends if you have dry skin. If you tend to be more sensitive, opt for a PHA. Otherwise, AHAs like lactic and glycolic acid can be used—Dr. Clay advises opting for a low percentage of the latter option if you have sensitive skin and want to use an AHA.
• Acne-prone skin: Any exfoliator can lead to improvements in acne-prone skin. However, Dr. Dowling notes that BHAs (if they can be tolerated) are the best option because they regulate oil production and have anti-inflammatory effects.
• Combination skin: If oil production is a concern, opt for a BHA such as salicylic acid. You can also use AHAs like glycolic and lactic acid, which are easier to tolerate. If AHAs and BHAs don't seem to work well for you, Dr. Dowling suggests trying a PHA or reducing the frequency you're applying your chemical exfoliators.

Can you mix chemical exfoliants?

It's totally safe to use more than one chemical exfoliant at a time—and you can use your exfoliators on separate days or mix them together. Additionally, Dr. Dowling suggests investing in products made with a combination of acids instead: "You don't know how much you're getting when you combine products, and it's easy to irritate the skin that way," explains Dr. Dowling. "There are a lot of great combination products out there that combine different kinds of AHAs or AHAs with a PHA or BHA."

If you're still unsure about combining various acids, check in with your dermatologist for more guidance.